buddha's birthday bash

One might think that a birthday celebration for an awakened being and spiritual leader to millions would entail meditation marathons or scheduled selfless acts of kindness. Maybe you wouldn't expect monk dance offs, drum circles, opulent decor, and ice cream. Albeit red bean dairy free "ice cream", aka bingsu, but ice cream-esque none the less. As far as birthday parties go (and probably a few other things) Buddha knows what's up.

Following is a review of the shenanigans.

Late Sunday evening: After retrieving one jet-lagged smiley brother- Juan Chico !!! from Incheon airport, we made our way to Jogyesa temple in Insadong to explore. Emerging from the metro, we quickly spotted a string of lotus lanterns dancing in the night breeze along the sidewalk and followed them accordingly. A smiling older gentleman interrupted my documentation of the singular burning strand to assure me that much better photographic gems awaited down the way...




The air was perfumed by cut flowers, fruit offerings and incense. Even though it was nearly midnight dozens of devotees roamed the grounds, humming and quietly smiling at the awestruck foreigners.

Monday morning:
Post spicy stew breakfast, we boarded the metro for another temple- Bongeunsa. This temple is in the overtly corporate area of Seoul. Despite being flanked by glimmering headquarters, Bongeunsa is a forested 3 acres with multiple shrines and walking paths lined with strawberries. The grounds were far from tranquil on the Big B's b-day but instead stood uncharacteristically brimming with visitors and vendors.




All shapes and sizes came to pay their respects


 A thumping dance train twirled throughout the day



 and what party is complete without a balloon toting rat tail? No party I'm willing to attend.


seonyudo round deux

                               
 Ventured to Seonyudo again on Sunday. More biking, hiking, climbing, and startling sea creatures. The above picture was taken from the top of the left summit in first picture.

 Your standard string munching anemone living in a tidal pool. There were hundreds of these fellows in the rocks below.

 This is what the above anemones look like when you touch them with a shell, not a finger. Of course.
 The second climb of the day. Home to both Rabbit rock and the Grandmother stone.

 Knotted ferns (?) that so convincingly felt like rope I had to dig for their roots just to be sure they were indeed a plant.
     The regal ambassador of Seonyudo. Past times include eating kimchi, and chewing paper cups or shoe laces.

You're beginning your first ascent and hear rustling leaves. First thought "#$! Why did I keep putting off researching venomous snakes in Korea?" You wait quietly while the rustling continues. A flash of red catches your eye. Cautiously you look closer, and there crouches the first of many mountain crabs you will meet today. Ah Korea, you're never what I would think to expect.



spider legs and love motels

If you make an impromptu decision to catch the last bus to Seoul on Friday night, you might find yourself staying in a place commonly known as a "love motel".  These places are inexpensive, prolific, resourcefully wallpapered, and come with free toothbrushes and contraceptives.
Not the kind of place you'd want to send your folks, but certainly an interesting endeavor for those with a proclivity for dim lighting.


 so much wallpaper so little time
The primary motivation for going to Seoul was to experience Do Ho Suh's solo exhibition at the Leeum Samsung Museum. Ok, truth be told. The primary motivation was the international food culture in the Itaewon and Dongdaemun districts. Thai, Moroccan, Nepalese, and Mexican delights plus strange street food all in one belly all in one weekend?! Yes please. However, Do Ho Suh's exhibit was a close second for sensory overload. The vast majority of the exhibit was sewn silk.






Lo and behold there were miniatures as well.




Leeum Samsung Museum also hosts two "Maman" by Louise Bourgeois. Much love and respect for this fiercely genuine artist.



The second night in Seoul was spent at Alpha "Guesthouse", which is what they seem to call hostels in Korea. While the wallpaper wasn't quite as stunning as the Pando (yes Pando not Panda) Love Motel, it was still interesting given that its immediate neighbor was a Buddhist temple. In the middle of Seoul. Urban enlightenment anyone?


Buddha's birthday bash is May 28th this year! Bring on the green tea and bibimbap.